KERALA EXPERIENCES
Mararikulam
Beach and Village Solitude
The best thing about Kerala is that after spending two days exploring a place of adventure amidst the hill-side air, a two hour drive can land you ASAP into the comforting lap of warm beach-side air. So from the central highlands, let's dive into the central farmlands of the State this time.
A relatively unfamiliar village and tourist haven, Mararikulam on the borders of Alleppey district is where you should pitch camp if you wish to explore the different facets of Central Kerala's backwaters, villages and beaches.
Now the reason I found Mararikulam as the perfect hub to explore Central Kerala is mainly due to the logistical convenience this beachside village offers. Not to mention the relaxed heritage beach homestays in place and the numerous opportunities on offer to explore local village life and culture. Check this factoid:
1) It's just 25 kms from Alleppey
2) It's just 30 kms from Cochin
3) It's just 6 kms from the Muhamma boat jetty. And a 45 minute ferry ride through the famed Vembanad Lake from here takes you to the opposite bank, which is the world famous tourist spot of Kumarakom!
Yes, as you can see, if you are at Marari, you are at the heart of Kerala's main travel circuit. For now though, I'll stick to Marari and mention about the 24 hour experience you can chase while here (Marari is how the place is called locally).
MORNING
First of all, book yourself a beach-side homestay. There are really amazing places like CGH Earth's Marari Beach Resort, which is an experiential resort. A sprawling property, it invites you into the experience of traditional fishing hamlets of Kerala with the added advantage of great seafood and nature inspired cottages. There's a butterfly garden for leisure and a vegetable garden where you can pick your favourite produce of the day and cook it in their open kitchen. Meanwhile, try out their fish curry meals. It's beautiful. The property has access to the beach in front and its guests are provided with beach beds, sun shade umbrellas etc.
For a more personal and private experience though, I'd recommend the traditional homestays lining the other end of the beach. Such as the Marari Villas, managed by the foreign couple Olga and Rupert. A traditional Kerala home converted into a tourist homestay, the place is amaaaaaaaazing, but equally expeeeeeensive (A room here costs 300 USD/night during the off-season as compared to 150-200 USD for the resorts of CGH and ABAD. Peak season, the rates go straight double). Worth it though, if you wish to go all out in your personal space. There are also private homestays a little away from the beach run by villagers.
Mornings in such an ambience are best spent idling away, getting sun-tanned, drinking fresh juices and tasting some fresh seafood.
AFTERNOON
This would be a good time to explore the surrounding villages. While the timing may sound odd, this is the best time of the day you can cycle, walk, laugh and enjoy the countryside without worrying about wondrous stares from locals. It might be humid, but that's something any traveller can handle. The stares though are something which usually unsettle visitors to Kerala.
For the record, I would just like all visitors to know that we Malayalees have the habit of staring at people who look different. Such stares by village folk during the daytime are usually harmless. In fact, not just foreigners, even Indians dressed differently will be watched. Even my friends and me, all regular malayalees, walking around in our city jeans, t-shirts and funny hairstyles are stared at.
But nonetheless, since you may be unfamiliar with this innocent habit of the eyes of us Malayalees, it's understandable why you'd want to avoid being the centre of attraction in a remote village. So the afternoon timing.
There are quite a bit of cultural experiences to be gathered over a village walk, this I can assure. You'll find women outdoors tending to their goats towards the latter hours of noon. You'll also encounter several heaps of coir left to dry on the road and coir mills run by all-women crew in thatched sheds by the road. Talk to them, observe the process. They'll be more than happy to teach you about the coir industry which is central to the lives of the people here (other than fishing).
The Ponnadu Village near Muhamma has a beautiful lakeside heritage bungalow, The Palma Laguna (in pic),
It goes without saying that the evenings spent in a place like Marari, which offers an experience of both the backwaters and the beach, is meant for tranquility and a time of your own. Sit on the soft white sands or the glistening stones, eat grilled fish, sip your favourite cocktail and read a book as the sun sets in front and the moon rises.
After 24 hours in this beautiful village, where do you head to the next day? ALLEPPEY, COCHIN OR KUMARAKOM? Watch out for which in my next entry.
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