KERALA EXPERIENCES
HG KANJIRAPALLY, PALA AND VAGAMON
OF HERITAGE HOMES, CHURCHES AND THE CENTRAL HIGHLANDS
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A lot of tourists come to Kerala, enjoy its greens and browns and depart content, at having seen nature being preserved so differently in the State, unlike in many other parts of India. But Kerala is also home to a great deal of heritage; especially when it comes to homes and buildings of various religious groups. Homes that are well over 70 years old and bear the touch of colonial influences; the English, Portuguese and the Dutch among others. Churches too bear a distinct architecture, even though they borrow a few tricks from Gothic and Roman designs, especially in their interiors.
The Central Highland region is the best place to experience these heritage sites. If it's raining, even better. Just a couple hours drive from Thekkady-Kumily, the towns of Kanjirapally, Pala and Bharananganam are home to these spectacular homes and churches. Dotted with rubber plantations and the pleasantness of cool breeze wafting down the highlands, these towns are best experienced by a ride in your motorbike (if it's raining, hire a four wheeler), or if you are in a group or heading to some really steep slopes, by travelling in a hired car. Roll down the windows as you pass fields of rubber, each holding a beautiful cottage home at its centre.
Characterised by the typical slanting roofs that define Kerala architecture and a single storied elongated structure, the homes usually sport an elegant white paint; a sign of the aristocracy which defines the planters of this region. A few of these homes have been converted into homestays and I was fortunate to spend some time at a delightfully charming place which goes by the name of VANILLA COUNTY. This homestay is run by the owner-couple and is set amidst fields of rubber and spices. They have outdoor tents for adventure travellers and one can walk towards a nearby pond for a refreshing natural bath. There are several more impressive homestays run by the owners themselves such as the KALAKETTY ESTATE (in pic)
Here are a few experiential things you can do while criss-crossing the region.
MORNING
I am someone who loves heritage homes since they allow me to dream of a time I have only read or heard about. It's like going into a past, thinking of the circumstances that helped shape the families or persons living in such homes.
The Meenachil River which crisscrosses the Central Highlands of Kerala was in the past used to import logs from higher range areas for building homes. Most of the heritage homes dotting this region have thus predictably made use of wood on an abundant scale. The residents of these homes are usually welcoming and hospitable. Spend the mornings driving past these homes, admiring their beauty and entering a few and knowing more about the minimalistic interiors that characterise them. It would be fun to learn about the culture and identity of the generally Christian population here before you begin exploring the countless churches and chapels adorning the region, later in the afternoon. Plantation walks through the shade of rubber estates and fields of teak and other hardwood trees is another option to understand the highland flora of Kerala. I have visited the 400 year old Kuruvinakunnel Home as well and have attached a pic of the same. The home doubles up as a homestay.
a ride through the rubber plantations (courtesy team-bhp)
AFTERNOON
This region is famous for its pork and non-veg dishes. Almost every hotel in Pala serves delicious pork fare (try Hotel Mariya), and there are several toddy shops along the road, where you can drink a glass of fermented country coconut liquor alongside sumptuous and spicy chicken, pork, duck and fish dishes. Post-lunch, the suggested step would be to head out and explore the many churches that populate the highland region.
A majority of these churches are over a 150 years old and simply spectacular in architecture. Of importance is the shrine of St. Alphonsa, India's first Catholic Saint, in the pilgrimage town of Bharanganam is not to be missed.
The churches in general portray interiors with a European touch, especially Portuguese influences and most have been renovated in recent times without losing any of the old-world charm. The churches have beautifully landscaped outdoors which are ideal to calm your mind after a heavy lunch. Or you could sit inside and meditate amidst the peace of the surrounding highlands.
EVENING
Head out to the nearby hills of Vagamon after enjoying the heritage views on offer in the towns of Pala and Kanjirapally. Vagamon is among the few unspoiled hill stations in Kerala, interspersed with acres of tea plantations. There are several trekking and camping sites in the rollicking hills and meadows of Vagamon, though for accommodation at night you may have to look for options towards its border towns. This is one reason that the region still maintains its pristine charm and also largely unexplored.
You can spot several British era cottages (used by their officers as a summer home in the past) as you pass through the Vagamon hills. I had quite a bit of fun driving and exploring the region's rocky terrain, hills and waterfalls and I'm sure you'll enjoy it too if you are an adventure enthusiast.
Vagamon is home to an annual adventure carnival usually held at the start of the year in the months of February and March. You can engage in paragliding with FLY VAGAMON, a paragliding club based out of the region.
As you can see, there's more than 24 hours of everything; ranging from heritage, architecture, leisure and adventure, to be enjoyed in these small towns of Central Travancore Highlands of Kerala.
In my next blog entry, I'll take you further south to the coastal village of Marari.
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