Kerala Experiences
Cochin- PART 3
It's more than just the Arabian Sea. Its suburbs are a haven for adventure, rivers, leisure and multi-cultural habitat
Continuing from the previous blog post, here are destinations 7,8,9 and 10
7. Mattanchery:
Getting to the island suburbs of Mattanchery and Fort Kochi is best done by catching the ferry from the mainland. There is good road connectivity too, though taking the ferry takes you through the backwaters and gives you splendid water views of the Cochin Shipyard, the international transshipment terminal and its gigantic cranes, the Hotel Taj Malabar and the traditional looking building of Cochin Shipyard. The boat ride to Mattanchery takes just fifteen minutes and it's pleasant to hear the chatter of local folk while you're engrossed in the calm waterways connecting the city's different island suburbs.
Mattanchery is the original spice trade hub of South India, before it lost out to more glamourous ports Karnataka and Tamil Nadu and the cheaper workforce available there . But there is considerable trade even now, though relatively it's a pale shadow of the yesteryear commerce value. Much of the spice trade in this region revolves around black pepper.
Take a walk down the Jew Street, which is a cobbled walkway lined on either side by curio and handicraft shops. Here you can find several micro art-galleries, art cafes and be engulfed in an old world-charm of multi-culture & multi-century atmosphere. Many of the handicraft shops are manned by Kashmiris, so be assured of getting the most genuine cashmere shawls and antiques from here. There are also works by local artists on display. Chat up with a curator, and get introduced to local artisans, see their works and buy a couple of paintings if you're interested in taking some home.
For the heritage traveller, there is the Mattanchery Palace (Dutch Palace), near to the boat jetty itself. The palace has been converted into a museum today and houses murals, relics and exhibits of the former kings of Kochi. There is also the Jewish Synagogue, which is open on all days except Fridays, Saturdays and Jewish holidays. The boat ride costs just INR 3.
Another experiential thing to do here is to cycle or walk along the various streets that accommodate the populace of this place. Mostly belonging to Anglo-Indians, the homes are influenced heavily from Portuguese, English and Dutch styles, and look like geometrically shaped dwellings alongside well laid narrow roads.
Getting to the island suburbs of Mattanchery and Fort Kochi is best done by catching the ferry from the mainland. There is good road connectivity too, though taking the ferry takes you through the backwaters and gives you splendid water views of the Cochin Shipyard, the international transshipment terminal and its gigantic cranes, the Hotel Taj Malabar and the traditional looking building of Cochin Shipyard. The boat ride to Mattanchery takes just fifteen minutes and it's pleasant to hear the chatter of local folk while you're engrossed in the calm waterways connecting the city's different island suburbs.
Mattanchery is the original spice trade hub of South India, before it lost out to more glamourous ports Karnataka and Tamil Nadu and the cheaper workforce available there . But there is considerable trade even now, though relatively it's a pale shadow of the yesteryear commerce value. Much of the spice trade in this region revolves around black pepper.
Take a walk down the Jew Street, which is a cobbled walkway lined on either side by curio and handicraft shops. Here you can find several micro art-galleries, art cafes and be engulfed in an old world-charm of multi-culture & multi-century atmosphere. Many of the handicraft shops are manned by Kashmiris, so be assured of getting the most genuine cashmere shawls and antiques from here. There are also works by local artists on display. Chat up with a curator, and get introduced to local artisans, see their works and buy a couple of paintings if you're interested in taking some home.
For the heritage traveller, there is the Mattanchery Palace (Dutch Palace), near to the boat jetty itself. The palace has been converted into a museum today and houses murals, relics and exhibits of the former kings of Kochi. There is also the Jewish Synagogue, which is open on all days except Fridays, Saturdays and Jewish holidays. The boat ride costs just INR 3.
Another experiential thing to do here is to cycle or walk along the various streets that accommodate the populace of this place. Mostly belonging to Anglo-Indians, the homes are influenced heavily from Portuguese, English and Dutch styles, and look like geometrically shaped dwellings alongside well laid narrow roads.
8. Fort Kochi:
Fort Kochi, the state's art capital, is just a few miles from Mattanchery and easily accessible by road and boat. Cochin's premier and most sought after destination, Fort Kochi embodies the true Cochin spirit of being a confluence of many cultures and having an accommodating spirit towards local and foreign crowd, in equal measure. Its criss-crossing roads, heritage homes, art galleries and open parks and spaces all combine to give an appearance of being transported to a world of past centuries yet contemporary in every sense of the word. The Kashi Art Gallery located on Burgar Street, is perhaps the most popular hangout of Fort Kochi. The city's first genuine private art gallery, it promotes the works of new artists, and has an upscale cafe attached to it. Check out the chocolate cake and ice tea here, as well as the cheese omelette. The breakfasts dishes served here are pretty famous as well among the tourist crowd.
Fort Kochi also has a beach, which though not a very clean one offers ample scope to relax and watch the setting sun. The many restaurants lining the town offer seafood delicacies. My favourite is the Oceanos Restaurant on Elphinstone Road. Check out the fish curry in mango curry and the appams served here. Amaaaaaaaaziiiiiinggg.. Probably the best seafood dish I've had. Also check out Dal Roti, a restaurant that serves good North Indian fare.
For the budget conscious there is the Chariot Restaurant right next to the family park. There's also UPSTAIRS, a good Italian restaurant that serves authentic fare.
The best time to explore Fort Kochi is post noon. The heritage hotels, beer and wine parlours, beachside leisure and handicrafts shops make for a memorable time. There are several homestays and lodges for accommodation, if you prefer not to return to the mainland.
Mornings are best spent exploring the streets and admiring the heritage homes, The St. Francis Church and the David Hall Art Gallery. You can also try your hand at fishing using the Chinese fishing nets. The fishermen manning them will be more than willing to make you a part of the sojourn.
It will take you more than 72 hours to fully explore and relish in the experiences offered by this place. You can rent a cycle or bike for convenience.
PS: Fort Kochi has gained international fame in recent times as the venue of India's premier biennale, The Cochin-Muziris Biennale, held every two years from December to March.
(kashi cafe)
9. Wellingdon Island:
Cochin's most quaint and peaceful spot, the Wellingdon Island houses the navy barracks, port staff quarters, fields of 20 feet shipment containers and most of all, cute little English cottages. Most of the city's top rated hotels including the Taj Malabar, Trident and CGH Earth are situated on this island expanse which is incidentally the largest man-made island in India, made from the sand dug out as part of the deepening and widening project of the Vembanad Lake for the modern Cochin Port way back in the 1930s.
The island is a nice place to spend your evenings, with old-world godowns and heritage buildings dotting its beautifully designed & wide roads. Spend time at the private waterside strip next to the Cochin port, where vehicles are restricted and benches to seat visitors have been fitted for convenience. Enroute this part of the island, you can find on either side of the road cosy English cottages which serve as officer quarters of the port trust today. Watching the architecture of these homes is a must visit for me whenever I'm on the island.
While at Wellingdon Island, don't expect the experiences abounding in the earlier two destinations mentioned above; but nonetheless visit the island for a quiet evening totally cut out from commercialisation of any sort.
10. Kumbalangi:
Kerala's first model eco-tourism village, Kumabalangi is a must visit if you want to experience the backwaters without heading off to Alleppey for that. Home to countless homestays, you can while away your time angling, eating fresh fish, sipping beers and going out on boat rides with local folk. I've been to a couple of homestays here, and the last time I visited this place I visited this really amazing floating resort, called the Aquatic Floating Resort. Situated amidst acres of paddy fields and ponds used for scientific fish rearing, this resort is supposedly Asia's first fully floating resort. The entire complex and all the rooms float on water with no ground support onto the water bed. The rooms too are half submerged and well, though it feels intimidating at first, it's a refreshing change. The beach is close by, and so is a small forest ideal for bird watching. There is a lot of village life to be experienced and observed at Kumbalangi, since the villagers are very cooperative in showing you around.
Now the 10 places in Cochin which I have written about start from the north of Cochin and end in the south, without in any way entering the crowd and pollution of Cochin city. If you are planning a trip to Cochin after your visit to Alleppey or from Kottayam, I would suggest experiencing the destinations in the reverse order of 10 to 1 ie. from Kumbalangi to Fort Kochi and so on.
If you are coming from the northern side of Kerala ie. from Thrissur or Calicut side, follow the destinations in the order as mentioned in the blog for the smoothest experience.
DO NOT enter the city for the next two years, since work on the Kochi metro has the city engulfed in dust. Keep to the borders as outlined in the blog, experience everything good about the city and its suburbs and head out to the next destination: Athirapally, a waterfall and wildlife escape situated in the adjacent district of Thrissur.
About which I'll be mentioning in my next blog.
Till then, happy reading.
Fort Kochi, the state's art capital, is just a few miles from Mattanchery and easily accessible by road and boat. Cochin's premier and most sought after destination, Fort Kochi embodies the true Cochin spirit of being a confluence of many cultures and having an accommodating spirit towards local and foreign crowd, in equal measure. Its criss-crossing roads, heritage homes, art galleries and open parks and spaces all combine to give an appearance of being transported to a world of past centuries yet contemporary in every sense of the word. The Kashi Art Gallery located on Burgar Street, is perhaps the most popular hangout of Fort Kochi. The city's first genuine private art gallery, it promotes the works of new artists, and has an upscale cafe attached to it. Check out the chocolate cake and ice tea here, as well as the cheese omelette. The breakfasts dishes served here are pretty famous as well among the tourist crowd.
Fort Kochi also has a beach, which though not a very clean one offers ample scope to relax and watch the setting sun. The many restaurants lining the town offer seafood delicacies. My favourite is the Oceanos Restaurant on Elphinstone Road. Check out the fish curry in mango curry and the appams served here. Amaaaaaaaaziiiiiinggg.. Probably the best seafood dish I've had. Also check out Dal Roti, a restaurant that serves good North Indian fare.
For the budget conscious there is the Chariot Restaurant right next to the family park. There's also UPSTAIRS, a good Italian restaurant that serves authentic fare.
The best time to explore Fort Kochi is post noon. The heritage hotels, beer and wine parlours, beachside leisure and handicrafts shops make for a memorable time. There are several homestays and lodges for accommodation, if you prefer not to return to the mainland.
Mornings are best spent exploring the streets and admiring the heritage homes, The St. Francis Church and the David Hall Art Gallery. You can also try your hand at fishing using the Chinese fishing nets. The fishermen manning them will be more than willing to make you a part of the sojourn.
It will take you more than 72 hours to fully explore and relish in the experiences offered by this place. You can rent a cycle or bike for convenience.
PS: Fort Kochi has gained international fame in recent times as the venue of India's premier biennale, The Cochin-Muziris Biennale, held every two years from December to March.
(kashi cafe)9. Wellingdon Island:
Cochin's most quaint and peaceful spot, the Wellingdon Island houses the navy barracks, port staff quarters, fields of 20 feet shipment containers and most of all, cute little English cottages. Most of the city's top rated hotels including the Taj Malabar, Trident and CGH Earth are situated on this island expanse which is incidentally the largest man-made island in India, made from the sand dug out as part of the deepening and widening project of the Vembanad Lake for the modern Cochin Port way back in the 1930s.
The island is a nice place to spend your evenings, with old-world godowns and heritage buildings dotting its beautifully designed & wide roads. Spend time at the private waterside strip next to the Cochin port, where vehicles are restricted and benches to seat visitors have been fitted for convenience. Enroute this part of the island, you can find on either side of the road cosy English cottages which serve as officer quarters of the port trust today. Watching the architecture of these homes is a must visit for me whenever I'm on the island.
While at Wellingdon Island, don't expect the experiences abounding in the earlier two destinations mentioned above; but nonetheless visit the island for a quiet evening totally cut out from commercialisation of any sort.
10. Kumbalangi:
Kerala's first model eco-tourism village, Kumabalangi is a must visit if you want to experience the backwaters without heading off to Alleppey for that. Home to countless homestays, you can while away your time angling, eating fresh fish, sipping beers and going out on boat rides with local folk. I've been to a couple of homestays here, and the last time I visited this place I visited this really amazing floating resort, called the Aquatic Floating Resort. Situated amidst acres of paddy fields and ponds used for scientific fish rearing, this resort is supposedly Asia's first fully floating resort. The entire complex and all the rooms float on water with no ground support onto the water bed. The rooms too are half submerged and well, though it feels intimidating at first, it's a refreshing change. The beach is close by, and so is a small forest ideal for bird watching. There is a lot of village life to be experienced and observed at Kumbalangi, since the villagers are very cooperative in showing you around.
Now the 10 places in Cochin which I have written about start from the north of Cochin and end in the south, without in any way entering the crowd and pollution of Cochin city. If you are planning a trip to Cochin after your visit to Alleppey or from Kottayam, I would suggest experiencing the destinations in the reverse order of 10 to 1 ie. from Kumbalangi to Fort Kochi and so on.
If you are coming from the northern side of Kerala ie. from Thrissur or Calicut side, follow the destinations in the order as mentioned in the blog for the smoothest experience.
DO NOT enter the city for the next two years, since work on the Kochi metro has the city engulfed in dust. Keep to the borders as outlined in the blog, experience everything good about the city and its suburbs and head out to the next destination: Athirapally, a waterfall and wildlife escape situated in the adjacent district of Thrissur.
About which I'll be mentioning in my next blog.
Till then, happy reading.
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