KUTTANAD- ALLEPPEY'S PRIZE JEWEL
THE RICE BOWL OF KERALA. THE HOME OF BACKWATER VILLAGES
Kerala, and in particular Alleppey, is world famous for its ever-flowing backwaters crisscrossing through picturesque villages, magnificent churches and a life of simplicity that is reminiscent of a time when technology was limited to just the television. But things have changed today. Yes, it has affected the famed Kuttanad belt as well. But on the brighter side, here paddy farmers, fishermen and a rising educated class alongside their modern aspirations continue to lead a major chunk of their life in a manner that showcases Kerala as it once was: pristine, unadulterated yet ever teeming with the prospects of moving forward.
As someone whose ancestry hails from Pulincunoo- one of the most beautiful villages in this paddy belt, my understanding of this region is mostly experiential. And I can assure you, there are few places in Kerala which can offer you an experiential treat as much as Kuttanad. After your stay at Marari, this is where you should be if you wish to experience Kerala as it once was.
AC ROAD
Imagine a tree bark from which various branches spread out. If you wish to explore the Kuttanad region, head out to the AC Road, which directly connects the town of Alleppey to Changanacherry, a town that houses Catholic and Hindu seats of power,
A straight road, it branches out at several junctions into villages, made popular by numerous films, songs and cultural legends that celebrate the traditional wealth of this region.
The well tarred road is nearly 25 kilometres long and cuts through acres and acres of rice paddy fields. Depending on what time of the harvest season you pass by the region, the fields will sport a brown, green or golden-green colour. You can find numerous fishermen selling the fresh catch of the day by the roadside; not to mention flocks of ducks swimming in the green-hued canals which interject the paddy fields along the route.
There are also several fine restaurants where you can get in to taste the region's famed spicy cuisine of chicken/duck/quail/pork/beef and fish dishes. Upon special request, you also get some exotic dishes. The Avees Puttu House is my favourite. Apart from dining, one can buy readymade powders for making Puttu and other Kerala breakfast dishes from here. There's also the KTDC Tamarind.
Then there are the family toddy (coconut alcohol brew) shops along the route. These roadside toddy shops have hut-shaped rooms to seat families and tourists. Feel totally comfortable inside these spaces, while enjoying good natural toddy and freshly made spicy seafood and non-veg dishes.
Kuttanad is famous for its boat races held from August-September, especially the Nehru Trophy Boat Race. But here I've detailed a few off-beat experiences you can indulge in the numerous island villages of Kuttanad while driving along the AC Road. The experiences are best felt during the monsoon season, when boat races, lush paddy fields, and the nostalgic smell of rain drenched earth capture your senses.
Experience 1
CYCLE.
The best way to experience Kuttanad is to stay in one of its homestays, rather than hurry to and fro Alleppey. Several traditional homes, with their wooden granaries, gabled ears, outpost shelters and cool attics have been converted into homestays by family descendants. The purpose is not just to enthral tourists but also to conserve the heritage value of these structures. I spent considerable time at EMERALD ISLE, which is accessible by boat. Their pick-up point is located on a small detour taken from the AC Road. For those looking for budget traditional accommodation, there are smaller homestays on the banks leading to the numerous villages such as Nedumudy, Edathua, Pulincunoo etc. All branches of the AC Road.
The region abounds in spectacular looking churches and has a rich Hindu heritage as well. Some of the churches such as the Edathua church are famous as pilgrimage centres and a must visit. The ride to these holy sites passes through villages which depict the perfect example of rural Kerala life of a minimalistic yet qualitative lifestyle.
It's best to grab a bicycle or bike and explore the countryside, stop at toddy shops, chat up with local folks, taste local cuisine, engage in fishing and to dive into the backwaters for a swim.
There are country boats, canoes, bridges and ferries to take you from one island village to another. You can carry your bicycle on them, else take the longer route if you are on bike.
WALKING
Experience 1
CYCLE.
The best way to experience Kuttanad is to stay in one of its homestays, rather than hurry to and fro Alleppey. Several traditional homes, with their wooden granaries, gabled ears, outpost shelters and cool attics have been converted into homestays by family descendants. The purpose is not just to enthral tourists but also to conserve the heritage value of these structures. I spent considerable time at EMERALD ISLE, which is accessible by boat. Their pick-up point is located on a small detour taken from the AC Road. For those looking for budget traditional accommodation, there are smaller homestays on the banks leading to the numerous villages such as Nedumudy, Edathua, Pulincunoo etc. All branches of the AC Road.
The region abounds in spectacular looking churches and has a rich Hindu heritage as well. Some of the churches such as the Edathua church are famous as pilgrimage centres and a must visit. The ride to these holy sites passes through villages which depict the perfect example of rural Kerala life of a minimalistic yet qualitative lifestyle.
It's best to grab a bicycle or bike and explore the countryside, stop at toddy shops, chat up with local folks, taste local cuisine, engage in fishing and to dive into the backwaters for a swim.
There are country boats, canoes, bridges and ferries to take you from one island village to another. You can carry your bicycle on them, else take the longer route if you are on bike.
Experience 2
HOUSEBOATS
There are over 1300 houseboats plying on the Vembanad Lake. If you have time to spare from morning till dusk, book one and explore the inland waterways and rural life of Kuttanad. The paddy fields of this region are only the second place in the world where farming is done below sea level (the other being Netherlands). Don't be surprised if you find water level in the paddy fields to be lower than the lake's water level. Paddy fields in the interior regions are mostly accessed by boat even today, and villages such as Kainakery are reached faster by boat.
The houseboats will take you through the backwaters, stop at toddy stalls, expose you to some beautiful and mouth-watering dishes and let you relax amidst the sight of greens and blues.
Experience 3
To explore the villages in and around your place of accommodation, it's best to walk since then you can navigate extremely narrow sand bunds. Tour homestay providers should be able to connect you with a farmer who'll be more than happy to take you into the heart of Kuttanad and its paddy fields. Learn a thing or two about how the great forefathers of this region constructed the under-water practice of farming in their own indigenous manner. The region is rich in cultural and heritage legacy, and so ask for a bonfire at night with local singers belting out folk songs for company.
As you can see, the AC Road and its surrounding villages have over 48 hours worth of experiences to share with the experiential traveller. In my next post, I'll take you up north to the commercial city of Cochin and its heritage town, Fort Kochi.
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